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| Photo from http://www.pinterest.com/pin/207165651581607057/ |
30 July 2013
I've always been an escapist. It's how I deal.
I escape into a workout. I escape into a good long run. I escape into books. I escape into writing. I escape into drawing (a feat which requires my utmost focus because, admittedly, I cannot draw for the life of me).
I escape. I like running away.
Which is why I'm drawn to surfing. Every act of it for me is a journey: from the long trips to the beach, to paddling hard out into the ocean, riding that wave, and to meeting new people that you never knew would turn out to be kindred free spirits as well.
It's all together a physical journey and an inner journey; social and solitary at the same time. And it suits me well. It's my kind of escape.
It's true. You are never the same after your first wave.

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